We're getting a new ride soon, so I'd like to know what things we should do and what things we shouldn't do to the new ride? How do you break in a new engine? Heard if done right it can help increase gas mileage? Heard also that using premium synthentic engine/transmission can help as well? Since the oils that come with the new car are rated to last 60k does it matter anyhow? What about waxing the car, should that be done?
I don't have the car, thus no car manual, so please don't tell me to RTFM!!
First thing we're going to put on there is a security alarm and remote starter. Then a fender cover to protect the hood from stone chips.
If you fellas have any specific products you'd like to recommend (like oil and wax type) please lmk, thx.
I sugest getting your oilchanged once between 500-1000 miles and as for waxing you need to wait 60-90days from the date the car was made to wax it, otherwise you risk rubbing off the clearcoat.
synthetic oils and other thingys are better. I use a half synthetic mix when changing my oil.
As for breaking i nthe engins I have heard with modern cars it reall isnt a thing to worry or think about...which I tend to agree with. I had my car to over 100 the day I got it and it proforms jsut the same now and its almost 3 years old now.
Man it doesnt seem like my 2k maxima is 3...maby Il lget it a cake...whats that 8 years old in car years?
I highly recommend against a front end bra... put them on 2 different cars thinking it would protect the front end when in all reality it did more damage than if it wouldn't have been there. Sand and dirt will get under it and dull the finish. I took mine off about once a month and cleaned under it and it still jacked up the paint. Another thing the paint that is exposed over time will fade. And when u sell it 5-10 years down the road and take that bra off... It looks like serious shit. Synthetic oil is alright if you enjoy paying the overinflated price on it... No matter how you look at it your gonna have to change oil every 3000 miles anyways so why pay the extra. Regular oil changes will make a engine last just as long with either oil in it. As far as breaking the motor in. Drive it a little harder than normal to make sure the rings in it seat on the cylinder walls... Other than that just drive it!
ok, so no bra for me, I'll just let everybody see me topless hehe
Seriously though, the engine's got 280 kilometres on it, tried putting it into park position and revving the engine to 4000rpm and it was rough. I can just hear it. Up to 3500rpm was ok though. From 0 to 2000rpm it was smooth. 2000 to 3500 the engine still wasn't quite willing, required more effort on the gas to get it going.
I hear the stock oem tires are crap, so I plan on replacing them with a better set. We get lots of snow in the winter, so I'd like a set that works for both summer and winter. Any particular brand/type you guys can recommend?
Well actually synthetic oil does lubricate better. So if you plan on driving it till its dead than I'd use the synthetic. U can most of the time put about 4000 with synthetic anyways. Sure its 4.50 a quart but if u do it yourself ur gonna pay the same amount as at the dealership but u'll get better oil. I always heard you should fluctuate speeds for the first 1000 miles to break in the tranny. However much truth there is to that u got me.
20+ years has told me to change oil every 3,000 miles,flush the cooling system every 2-3 years transmission service @ 25,000 differential/transfer case service @ 40,000 and you know what my vehicles get 88 p/up 187,000+ miles never torn down,all my past cars 200,000+miles before I even think about selling/trading in. And they say a mechanics car always needs work LOL.Break-in drive it how you are going to under your normal driving habits the onboard computers will remember what you want and when you want it. just like tweeking a chip if you dont want performance dont. What if it breaks? Who cares, it is under warranty and that iswhat it is for,not for abusers,(tranny drops,not changing oil,no coolant etc) This is what 20+ years has shown me. If you question my advice, ask your mechanic about these things, you trust him to repair it you should accept his opinion as good advise. PS if it isaftermarket add-ons be careful they can damage all types of warranties so be careful when installing them. Waxing ask your local custom paint shop and look around when your there for what they use. I use a detailer Im to lazy to wax myself.,
This thread is so old that plucky's new car might even have its first scratch by now (I hope not).
To add my two cents. Manufacturing tolerances are so much tighter than they used to be that new car mfrs dont give much, if any, advice on break-in. In contrast, I remember how excruciatingly long my brothers felt the break in process was on my dad's brand new 65' GTO.
Even with these new tighter tolerances, I would not drive the vehicle above 50 mph for the first 500 to 1000 miles. Otherwise just drive normally but if you do a lot of highway driving, change your routes to get a lot of time in at different and varying speeds. Synthetic is great if you want to pay for it, but its lower friction characteristics are not an asset at break-in. During break-in wear is a good thing because you want parts to wear a little so they get along with each other.
I've had more mechanics tell me the best thing to do to a new engine or even a rebuild is to drive the piss out of it like you normally would. What is the purpose of not driving it past 50mph? A new motor should have very little debre in it from machining. A rebuild might have some thts the purpose of changing the oil 300-500 miles after you first fire it up. I've rebuilt about 5 motors each one is still running strong. The one in my truck. I put straight SAE 30 oil in it. Fired it up let it idle till it warmed up to temp set the throttle so it would run about 2 grand left it like that for 30 min. Set the throttle to 3500 rpms left it like that for 30 min. Shut it down waiting a couple min and drained the oil out. filled it back up changed the filter took it out for a spin and dropped the hammer on it. The thing don't use a drop of oil and is the strongest motor i've ever put together. The only thing i regret about that motor is not lowering the compression on it. Pontiac 389 out of a 65 Lemans. 10.5:1 compression. Gotta run super unleaded with 32oz of 108 octane boost to get the sucker to run great. It will run on reg unleaded but it pings a lot. The other motors were 4 banger industrial motors in forklifts and those always get the piss ran out of them. All of those are still running with no problems. Both of the Quads my dad have when he bought those new Polaris recommends to ride them hard and break them in that way. honestly i don't think there is a wrong way to break a motor in. Get in the sucker and drive it like you normally would.
Originally posted by PreDatoR I've had more mechanics tell me the best thing to do to a new engine or even a rebuild is to drive the piss out of it like you normally would. What is the purpose of not driving it past 50mph? A new motor should have very little debre in it from machining. A rebuild might have some thts the purpose of changing the oil 300-500 miles after you first fire it up. I've rebuilt about 5 motors each one is still running strong. The one in my truck. I put straight SAE 30 oil in it. Fired it up let it idle till it warmed up to temp set the throttle so it would run about 2 grand left it like that for 30 min. Set the throttle to 3500 rpms left it like that for 30 min. Shut it down waiting a couple min and drained the oil out. filled it back up changed the filter took it out for a spin and dropped the hammer on it. The thing don't use a drop of oil and is the strongest motor i've ever put together. The only thing i regret about that motor is not lowering the compression on it. Pontiac 389 out of a 65 Lemans. 10.5:1 compression. Gotta run super unleaded with 32oz of 108 octane boost to get the sucker to run great. It will run on reg unleaded but it pings a lot. The other motors were 4 banger industrial motors in forklifts and those always get the piss ran out of them. All of those are still running with no problems. Both of the Quads my dad have when he bought those new Polaris recommends to ride them hard and break them in that way. honestly i don't think there is a wrong way to break a motor in. Get in the sucker and drive it like you normally would.
Anoterh old thread but........
This is the proper way to do it. Although I would have a fan blowing over the radiator for safety.
The point of breaking an engine in is to allow the molecules of the metal to go through a process known as "heat cycling". The best way to do this is to drive your engine hard, then let it cool, then hard, then cool, etc. The trick is to put varying loads on the engine, not all max load and not all minimal load. Just mix it up. After about 1-2 weeks, you can drive it normally. Engines take a good 1-2 years to fully break in...and you may end up with some extra HP/TQ as a result.
If you never run the engine hard before it "breaks in", it will not break in properly...so running it hard later on could lead to excessive wear or even some kind of damage.
Synthetic oils are the way to go...but not all synthetics are equal. For most intents and purposes, Castrol Syntec is somewhat of a scam. They actually use a dino-oil base and claim it is full synthetic. I would go with Mobil 1, or if you want the absolute best, Royal Purple or Amsoil. Also make sure you are using a quality oil fitler. Mobil makes some of the best oil filters, but they come at a price.
Another thing about synth. oils is that they have smaller molecules than dino oil, so they lube better. BUT, if you have been using dino oil for a long time in an old car, then switch to synth. oil, you may notice that you have an oil leak. This is because synthetic oil can seep out of cracks that were too small for dino oil to fit through.
Oh, and I would not leave oil in my car for 60K miles under any conditions. Amsoil claims it can be left for about 15-30K miles...but I change mine every 4-5K miles. I go by the oil life sensor in my car.
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