I think my clutch is going out. Why? Read on...
My car did something new (and that is never good). I was driving along in 3rd, and I started to accelerate harder. I felt my car sort of 'buck'. At first, I thought that maybe there was something wrong with my gas (too much water or something). But then, when it happened again, it almost felt like my clutch was giving out for a split second. It was the sort of bucking (or bouncing) sensation you get when in 1st or 2nd and you depress the accelerator too quickly. Could this mean my pressure plate is worn out?
I have never had any clutch problems before, so I don't know how to diagnose it. The car is a 98 Escort LX (crappy car). So if I do need a new clutch assembly, it runs about $700. Why so much? Because FORD put the clutch in such a horrible spot, the engine must be removed to gain access to the clutch assembly (yeah).
Any suggestions as to what this could be? I'll probably get my car into the garage this weekend.
Is my clutch slipping?
Is my clutch slipping?
- p o o p
I have only seen one or two cars with manual tranny's that didn't have tachometers. Assuming your cars has one, what does the needle do when you experience the symptoms. If the rpms go up and the car doesn't react, you are definitely slipping. Try mashing the gas while in a higher gear on a hill and watch the tach.
How many miles on this clutch and how do you drive it? Unless thrashed, a clutch usually lasts at least 60 - 80k.
BTW, I am no fan of Ford or the Escort (having survived owning one) but you would be hard pressed to find any front wheel drive manual trans car that does not have to have the engine pulled (or the equivalent) to get a clutch replacement. In a RWD car you can pull the trans back, but with the engine/trans combination sitting between the front wheels, FWD cars do not give you anything to work with.
How many miles on this clutch and how do you drive it? Unless thrashed, a clutch usually lasts at least 60 - 80k.
BTW, I am no fan of Ford or the Escort (having survived owning one) but you would be hard pressed to find any front wheel drive manual trans car that does not have to have the engine pulled (or the equivalent) to get a clutch replacement. In a RWD car you can pull the trans back, but with the engine/trans combination sitting between the front wheels, FWD cars do not give you anything to work with.
I had a 88 Escort GT... Jacked up the front of the car removed the suspension on the left sideand pulled the tranny out that way without removing the motor... Was easier to do that than pull hte whole motor out of the car... Took about 8 hrs to get it all done from start to finish... To me it don't sound like the clutch slipping if its bucking... Normally u just notice it being kinda sluggish and the motor reving up higher than normal... It almost sound like you got some bad gas to me... I've had that happen it will make a car do weird things... I think before i took it to a garage i'd go crab a can of that fuel nuetralizer stuff that has alcohol in it to suck out any water that mgiht be in the tank. I can't remember what they call that stuff for sure.
Thanks for the input.
No tach (yup, crappy car). I just go by sound, and I don't think it is revving too much. I live up a very steep hill, and I get constant acceleration all the way up, no unexpected revving.
I don't think it is the clutch anymore. I think it was some water in the gas line, or simply bad gas. It was a really subtle kind of feeling in the car, and it certainly was not there today. I tried giving it a little extra gas in 3rd, and the car responded like it should. I also remember the same sort of thing happening to me once when I bought meijer brand gas (which nobody should do, btw).
Though I do have 70k miles on the car. The transmission could probably use a check up. I know jack about transmission work, so I plan on taking it in to a shop sometime soon.
No tach (yup, crappy car). I just go by sound, and I don't think it is revving too much. I live up a very steep hill, and I get constant acceleration all the way up, no unexpected revving.
I don't think it is the clutch anymore. I think it was some water in the gas line, or simply bad gas. It was a really subtle kind of feeling in the car, and it certainly was not there today. I tried giving it a little extra gas in 3rd, and the car responded like it should. I also remember the same sort of thing happening to me once when I bought meijer brand gas (which nobody should do, btw).
Though I do have 70k miles on the car. The transmission could probably use a check up. I know jack about transmission work, so I plan on taking it in to a shop sometime soon.
- p o o p
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EvilHorace
- Life Member
- Posts: 6611
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2000 7:14 am
- Location: Greenfield, WI
Clutch test
From a stop, put the car in first and either use your e-brake or foot brake (holding car) and giving it a little gas (2000-3000 rpms) as you let the clutch out . If the engine stalls as it then should, the clutch disc isn't slipping BUT if the engine still revs, your clutch is slipping.
Another test is to shift gears at higher rpms and quickly letting the clutch pedal out. If it's OK, it'll either chirp the tires (like from 1-2 IF the engine has any torque, power that is) but if it just slowly slips slides into the next gear (disc slipping), it's NG. Some cars have cables with adjustable ends (vs hydraulic, no adjustments) so if it's slipping slightly and adjustable, you might be OK if you can adjust the fork ends freeplay to withing specs (usually about 1/8" freeplay).
Another test is to shift gears at higher rpms and quickly letting the clutch pedal out. If it's OK, it'll either chirp the tires (like from 1-2 IF the engine has any torque, power that is) but if it just slowly slips slides into the next gear (disc slipping), it's NG. Some cars have cables with adjustable ends (vs hydraulic, no adjustments) so if it's slipping slightly and adjustable, you might be OK if you can adjust the fork ends freeplay to withing specs (usually about 1/8" freeplay).
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