PCA Forums

Does anybody know where to get stub axels for a 70ish type one with IRS? Im not 100% sure thats what i need, but with the research i have done im pretty sure its a type 1 IRS rear. I had a wheel fall off and when it did it messed up the spline on the end of the axel so i need to replace it but cant find any any where... and i dont even know if its a part that can be changed.

Any help would be good.

Im probbly going to take the wheel off today and look at just how bad it is. When i do ill take some pictures and hope they will help.

check some online junkyard sites.. don't have the links.. but I have seen them..

I think one is called Greenleaf.. they have sites all over the US

Get me some pictures pugs.. I may have the part you need on my 72' Super Beetle..

eGo

JC Whitney sells quiet a bit of VW parts
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Vehi ... 37/c-10110

an other one here

I got lucky. It turns out the spline on the drum is totaly gone. the axel end is mostly ok. The spline is a bit worn on the end of the axel.. but its the verry end so it wont matter. Thanks for the help. Here are some pics:





See how there is no spline in there? that could be why it wouldent move!





thats what is broken. Not a hard fix at all. I fond a pair of drums and pads and all new spring hardware for a good price so ill just change them both out.

Another question about camber. It rides at the verry top of the suspenstion all the time (all the way extended) and it cambers in at the top (wears the tires on the inside). Is there a way to adjust this so they are straight so that my street tires would last longer? Pictures of that:







And now just some general pictures of it. Any info you could give me about parts would be a big help. I allready took the 34mm carb off and put the 2bbl progressive on it and it did make a differance... but i think its got a compression problem due to it not idling right with either of the carbs. I also put a bosch distributer and petronics (HEI? cant rememer what its called at the momemt) kit on it. The clutch seems to be in good shape. I need to get new boots for the CV but thats not an issue. The stock fuel pump is going bad... but thats not an issue i have a electric pump i can put on it. When i do ill pull the tank off and get some buffing compound and make that thing nice and shiney. I will look soo out of place when i do that.













You can kinda see how bad the camber is in this pic



Do they sell different gear sets for the transmissions? Like say i want 4th to be higher (make it go faster with less egine RPM) so that when im on the highway i can have a top speed thats higer then 60? right now I dont want to push it much harder to go that fast.

Again thanks for the help.

oh.. and the shifter doesent work right. the rod that goes in the bottom seems too low and the cup on it doesent engage the ball on the stick enuff.. making going form 3rd to secnd while moving really hard. but other then that it works fine. there is a rubber ring in the holder that if i rotate it it makes it a bit eayser to do... but i think i just might make a brass ring to put in there with a set screws and a off center hole to adjust it. Unless you know how to fix it the right way.

Well... I'm not very knowledgable about suspension so I won't really touch on that.. But anybody that knows anything about it would be helpful I would assume. As for your other issues.. You said it Idle's roughly.. This could be a couple of things.. Do you still have the advance? Or did you go with a Centrifugal Distributor? If you went Cent. Then you need to have the timing set to 45* off center (I think that's the number I'll have to double check). If not then you should set timing normally. If that's not it, then it could be the dying fuel pump you mentioned. If it's not getting enough gas at idle that could be causing the eratic idle. If it's a compression problem you'd probably be burning oil (I have one bad cylidner on my 1600cc and it still runs lol but burns oil badly). I'm trying to think of other things that cause that problem with the rough idle, my VW did that when I first got it. But my issues turned out to be distributor related from my memory. The transmission problem also sounds familiar. I had problems going from 2nd to 3rd as well. But mine would just shift into nothing lol.. I could go from 2nd to 3rd and it's like 3rd wasn't even there. Then shift back to 2nd and back to 3rd and it was fine. My uncle who is a VW guru (He's restored over 80 of them and used to build sand rails like yours) says that it is a linkage problem. So replacing the linkage might help. If I talk to him I will ask him about the other stuff. Hope this helps..

eGo

yea the distrubitor is a cent... and now that you mention it... about the idle... when its cold its crap and its just a bit better when its warm... but the intresting thing that you just made me think about is that after crusing for a while when i stop at a light or sighn it will idle just fine then after a bit it starts getting all bad again. I can set the idle up... but i cant get a good idle.. either its way to fast (im guessing that at that setting it spins fastenuff to pump fuel to make it run) or its too low and it will idle nicely at a nice RPM but then start to sputter and then die if i dont pump it.

So i guess before i go pulling the engine apart ill change the pump out.

What led me to think its a compression issue is that when i first start it it wont hit on all 4. it misses bad untill it warms up. and if i try and drive it cold I cant get any RPM out of it right away due to the missing. once it warms up a bit (about a half mile) it will run fine when i want to get in to it (other then the idle issue). I guess i just need to put some more time in to it and get the little stuff fixed and see what it does before i go tearing the engine apart.

Oh and when i set the timing i just upped the idle wiht a feeler gauge and turned it untill it ran the highest RPM and left it at that. I dont know where the timing mark is cause i cant find one any where on the lower pulley.

Again thanks for the help.

I have a VW back in the 70's, and if you don't use the heater pipe (from the exhaust to the intake manifold), the idel will be crap. Most after market exhaust kits don't have it. Take a look at an original VW one - the intake manifold and the exhaust. You'll see what I'm talking about.

hehe I think exec is talking about the small "dryer vent" type hoses that run from both of the exhaust pipes to the intake, but I could be wrong?

eGo

No, that was for the internal heating system to supply hot air inside the car. This small heater pipe was attached to the exhaust system. It allowed exhaust gas to pass through it in order to heat the intake manifold, then the carb.

oh i get it... well the new intake doesent have that. But that explains what that does. For the life of me i thought they were holes in the intake and that air was gettin sucked into them causing the bad idle... so i plugged them up. After removing the old intake i was even more confused when i found out it was a straig through pipe that didnt share any intake air. There is a huge stubb of pipe sticking out the side of the new intake... i just capped it up. let me see if i have a pic that shows it... yeah its in one of the pictures up there... its the red thing to the right of the distributer.

Ill have to change the pump out and see if that doesent help any. The guy that owned it before me had tape on the pushrod tubes to stop them from leaking. a few were bent up and split open. I replaced them and checkd the rods for straightness and they are all ok. so thats not an issue.

how about a simple but good carb clean?

The heat pipe is only an issue in cold weather. It should work OK if the ambient temp is above 60°F, but the carb will take longer to warm up.

I could try doing that. I got the wheel thing fixing. Bought a pair of drums and all the brake equipment BRAND NEW for 75 bux. And thats to do BOTH sides. So i guess thats one less thing i have to worry about.