Rewind to 16yrs old again

This car is systematic, hyyydromatic...why it's greased lightning!
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normalicy
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Post by normalicy »

Nice, looks relatively clean to start with.
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Key Keeper
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Post by Key Keeper »

Well here was my weekend project...
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Now just need some dynamat, and capet... sigh
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Err
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Post by Err »

It's looking good. Thanks for the update and pictures. Are you going with fuel injection or keeping it old school?
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normalicy
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Post by normalicy »

Nice work. Here's what I use instead of Dynamat (1/2 the price and works great):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUNRGM
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Post by Key Keeper »

Well right now its got a carb'd small block chevy. Im really going to focus on the interior and weather stripping. I have some other major components to swap out yet. The deck filler is rotted out since the car was originally a rag top and of course the rear window channel as well. Then moving on to the dang LS quarter panel. both front and rear have rot....Then the trunk pan but that will be a breeze since only a small section is bad.

I found a pretty good deal on a 454(with all accessories like the AC compressor...ect) so I may drop that in there. I'd like do do an LSX swap but thats really far off down the road.
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Post by Key Keeper »

Few more updates from tinkering last night :)

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I used HVAC duct wrap instead of dynamat. Dynamat is so heavy and expensive. The HVAC wrap had 3/16 thermal foam, and metal backing and its peel and stick. 3 rolls for $40 bux at home depot!
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DaMaN
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Post by DaMaN »

Smart move on the HVAC wrap, thanks for sharing your build with us!
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normalicy
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Post by normalicy »

I'll be honest, the HVAC wrap is better than nothing, but it's not as good as absorbing sound as the denser stuff.
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Post by Key Keeper »

Im more concerned with the thermal aspect. It has 40 series flowmasters, 3" pipe and will have turn downs so sound dampening the exhaust alone would be a feat in itself lol. Its already considerably quieter than it was though and Im only about half way done. Once the carpet is in with the jute backing, it should be pretty comfy inside when running down the road. I'd like to have dynamat it, but that stuff is really heavy and I am also concerned with weight since it will be making quite a few passes down the 1320' :)
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Post by Key Keeper »

Well after reading about the horror stories about the rear window channels being rotted out on most first gen birds/camaros I decided to dig into it. I noticed the flaking at the seam for the filler panel and after digging around I found out that the previous person tried to fill rust holes with bondo...bad move. So me and a bud...after a few adult beverages got out the cut off saw and went to town on the car. The rear window was litterally being held in by the chrome trim...the seal was completely dry rotted and not sealing at all.

Pics for your viewing pleasure.

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I was able to use some steel cut from the filler panel once it was removed
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Err
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Post by Err »

Nice work. Now your rear glass won't fall in. I think all cars from that era had certain places they would rust. I know Chrysler products can rust like mad around the tail lights.

Does the rear glass seal drying out cause the rust or does that area tend to hold moisture?
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Post by Key Keeper »

It holds moisture due to the way the trim is held on. Once I get the channel all cleaned up, rust neutralized, and the notches I cut repaired. I will be able to just plug weld the filler panel in. Replace all the trim clips and put the glass back in with the black gooey windshield seal stuff. After its dry, Im going to use black silicone that I used to use at the trans shop I worked at for chrysler pans, and completely fill the gap between the glass and the car. Shave it off and then reinstall the trim. That way any water that may collect in it will be shielded from the clips/ trim studs. They have SS screw studs to replace the OEM welded ones and thats what I will use. Ive got a poly body bushing kit on order along with a Goodmark "correct" filler panel. It will have the inside rollpan part so my interior and package tray will look right.
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normalicy
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Post by normalicy »

Good thing you have welding skillz.
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Post by Key Keeper »

This is actually the first time to really mig weld anything. I can stick weld my butt off, but this steel is way too thin for that. I borrowed a hobart from a coworker thats argon protected and it seems to be doing ok. The flux core I tried was messy as all get-out.
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normalicy
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Post by normalicy »

If you can stick weld, you can MIG weld. I have learned most of my welding with a flux core welder, now everything else I weld looks excellent because I'm used to just barely being able to weld stuff.
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